
(Wildlife Photography Cheat Sheet – more Information below the background)
Background about the Wildlifephotography Cheat-Sheet
The Intention behind this work is to help others figure out as I, what kind of focal length they would need.
I chose some variables already, because they fit my personal need. That is why I tried to make it as transparent as possible how and why the formula works and how to adjust it for other needs.
Explanation of the chosen examples:
I like to shoot wildlife a lot and the example animal heights are of animals that I expect to see or wanna see where I live and in vacations im planning.
I want to go as cheap and as light as possible. That is why I chose APSC, to get that extra reach for cheap money (I know that this has other disadvantages like lowlight performance).
I at least want to get a good picture. That means for me, to have the (rough estimate of the) hight in 20% of the picture hight. That way I should have a clear enough image, when I zoom in and also have enough environment for environmental shots. Portraits are obviously another thing, which is why more focal length basically is always better in my opinion.
But considering weight, price and minimum aperture might reduce your options.
My personal decision process:
I was planning on going with sony and not canon or nikon, because sony had at the time I wanted to go into photography cheaper and better options. I liked the 200-600 because of Aperture 6.3 instead of Aperture 8 on the canon 200-800 for example (not mentioning the weight difference). Also the APSC options seemed to be better at Sony. Then I basically had to decide between the 70-350, the 200-600 and the 400-800. By far the cheapest and lightest is obviously the 70-350, which Is enough for anything above 1m hight (considering you can get as close as around 120m to 1m-animals – so this might not be enough for wolves for example). You cannot use TCs with it though. The 400-800 is to heavy for me. I would have to carry a tripod always and thatβs not what I want. Note: If you decide, that 800 is the perfect focal length for you, choosing canon 200-800 would be cheaper and lighter, but older, darker and harder to handle. In the end, I chose the 70-350 because I thought I might get close enough for bigger birds to also get them. Turns out I can rarely, and also I do wanna get closer sometimes. Iβm Shooting for 9 months now and in Germany there are a lot of cool birds and owls to shoot, not so much land based animals. Thatβs why I upgraded pretty fast to the 200-600. I didnβt choose the 400-800 because I was still convinced 200-600 would be enough, having in mind I would be able to use a 1.4 TC if I wanted. Right now I couldnβt be more happy with my decisions. I mainly go out with the 200-600+TC14 and that gets me a lot of very close shots with 50% subject in picture. But im still convinced that 20% in picture is enough for most people, which is why I leave the Cheat-Sheet as it is. Also it wasnβt too expensive and is very comfortable to shoot handheld. I rarely use the 70-350 but it is fun, because its so light. It also blends in more and you dont get attention because of its length – I use it a lot when im with friends or my girlfriend, who are not as much into photography.
Further notes for you:
- the proportionality helps you to estimate the gaps in the tables.
- rent lenses, especially if calculating the weight and balance is important to you
- You can also use the formula f=g*B/G or respectively g=f*G/B . This is not correct but you will find this a lot in the internet and is for the examples on the cheat sheet approximately just 4% off – so a grood aproxximation.
Further Information about the formula that I use:






































































































